Project 7: The Fairy Dress

After a (way too) long sewing break, I needed a simple project to put me back on tracks and give me confidence: I was under the impression that I had forgotten everything that I had learned over the past months. Luckily, sewing is just like riding a bike. You don't forget. In the worst case you don't go very straight at first.

I picked a dress pattern in this sewing book that my parents gave me last Christmas. The book looks lovely and is based around the idea of creating simple "tuniques" or blouses. The projects are therefore quite straightforward, but I wouldn't recommend it if you're totally new to sewing. There is no explanation at all as to how you should build your garment, and you must be aware of the sewing basics if you want to make it through.

I decided I would do one of the two dresses, and changed the pattern a bit, because the dress was supposed to be very short: I added about 8cm and removed one or two details I didn't like. Since the design was so simple, I had to find a "Waouw" factor through the choice of the fabrics. The top one is cotton from the last John Lewis Spring sale. The second one was given to me for my wedding by my friends Audrey and Luize along with other marvellous pieces from Africa and Asia. It is slightly shiny and decorated with same color swirls.
A priori, they don't belong together, but once I'd tried, I couldn't believe how good they looked next to each other: the colours and the patterns match so perfectly that the dress became something delicate,original, poetic...a "fairy" dress.

It was very simple to make. the longest part was the collar. I had to cut a black bias (for which I created the pattern, since the book recommended to use a simple ribbon) that I hand-stitched.

It was really the perfect project to start again: it went smoothly and I love this dress, especially the delicate back opening. It certainly makes me want to do more.

So keep looking for the next project!

Project 6 : The Serena Dress

The inspiration for that dress comes from two different directions.

First, I had this beautiful fabric that my friend Carole brought back from India (along with the fabric of The India Dress -Project 3). While beautiful, this fabric, which is very light and very fragile, is hard to sew. It slides a lot under the machine's foot, modifying the shape of the project all the time.

Secondly, I must confess that I watch the TV show Gossip Girl (for those who don't know, it is an American soap where extremely rich teenagers use New York as a playground for their mischiefs and manipulations). Rather than for the most of the time upsetting characters, I watch it (or "pretend to watch it") for the high end fashion and stylist work that is put in each and every scene. The clothes are coming directly from the last runway shows and are beautifully accessorized. One of the main characters, Serena, has a tendency to wear boho dresses, very airy and intricated at the same time.

The combination of those two facts made me try something very adventurous: I made a dress without using a pattern. Keeping the Serena style in mind, I listened to my fabric, cutting it the less possible and using the existing length and combination of patterns in the best way I could.

It results in a maxi dress, with a double layer to correct for the transparency, elastic bands at the waist (which were challenging!) and an altar top. I didn't fix the straps, so I can wear them in different ways, according to the mood. I like the way the dress floats when I walk. The top is very naked, but I guess it will be wearable during summers (maybe not British summers though) and holidays. Unless I dare wearing it the way it shows on the top picture: with wellies and a blazer!

Project 3: The India Dress

Introducing my first dress....

How do you aquire gorgeous fabric without actually looking for it? Ask your friends who travel to bring you a souvenir! That's what my friend Carole generously did, bringing back from her last stay in India amazing printed fabrics. Two of them are very light and difficult to tame, but with the third one I decided I would do my first dress, because it seemed reasonably easy to manipulate.

I chose a pattern from Simplicity. My criteria were the following: I wanted sleeves and a high waist.The fact that the top and the bottom were two distinct pieces was reassuring: you have the impression you can adjust more than with only one piece.

Putting the sleeves together was not the easiest, but the fact that they are puffy made it acceptable that they were not perfectly sewed.

I have got some more serious issues though: I fixed an invisible zipper...without understanding clearly how to do it. So this is a visible invisible zipper!

There were supposed to be two pockets, but I lost one in the zipper process: it is not accessible if the zipper is up.

The hem was once more my least favorite part. I had to redo it several times before the bottom looked even.

On the other hand, it was very interesting to play with the different types of pattern details and to place them differently on the top, the clivage, the sleeves and on the skirt.

I wear that dress with dark tights (the fabric is not totally opaque), by itself or with a black top underneath if it's too cold. This is a highly comfortable dress. I will definitely buy more Simplicity patterns (and ask Carole more fabric)!

Cambodian inspiration

The decision to start sewing for good was made there. Going through the markets, choosing my own fabric for my own design and bringing everything to the tailor (the amazing always-smiling woman pictured below) : that feeling was unbelievable. And I thought it would be even better if I could sew myself and really make my dream clothes.

So, still with Cambodia in mind, I started.

Following is a glimpse of what inspired me back in Asia: prints, mix of prints, kramas, sarong fabric, and a sort of bling that is never very far from traditions.

Project 2: The Cat Skirt

Do you all remember Miu Miu stunning Spring 2010 collection made up of crazy prints? If not, here is an example (see right).

On the same outfit one can observe cats, birds and a naked woman. The whole thing is looking quite classy though. Or maybe kind of preppy. The prints are mixed with a great sense of humour combined to a subtle taste. If you want to see more of this gorgeous collection, you can go there.

I don't pretend that I wanted to design something Miu Miu like. But that inspiration gave me the courage to use this lovely print that I fell in love with, and to build from it a playful skirt. The result is definitely youthful, and that's my idea of the perfectly easy-to-wear skirt.

The pattern was from Burda. I learned how to gather fabric and how to sew a zipper (however that was before I discover the invisible zipper's magic). It was also my first invisible hem: that project gave me the opportunity to discover many techniques (and the hem is for sure something that I don't enjoy doing...)!

At the end I wear that skirt very often, but I wish I had picked a stricter shape to contrast with the childish print. A little bit more in the Miu Miu spirit I guess....

Project 1: The Skirt of Liberty

For my first sewing project, I picked what I thought would be the simplest thing to do: a wrap-over skirt which included neither buttonhole, neither zipper. However I quickly realised that the shape was a little bit tricky: I had to run very long and curvy seams, while I was still not able to sew proper straight lines with my brand new sewing machine. So at the end it took me a while, but with patience and determination, I managed to do something that doesn't look too crooked.

The print though was my true inspiration for that model, and it commanded the choice of a skirt pattern. I found indeed the most amazing cotton Liberty fabric wandering among the stalls at Marché Saint-Pierre in Paris. I thought that a navy blue background would be a change, so I went for this colorful print. In order to personalise the design, I assembled two buttons on each side of the skirt: they are purely decorative (the skirt is hold by snaps) but they give a vintage feel to the look. And they allow me to combine more easily a black top or golden accessories with the skirt.

The Liberty prints are definitely to be ranked among my favorite prints. To find out more about that fashion reference, you can go there: the blog of Liberty of London is filled with lovely pictures and design ideas.