Project 7: The Fairy Dress

After a (way too) long sewing break, I needed a simple project to put me back on tracks and give me confidence: I was under the impression that I had forgotten everything that I had learned over the past months. Luckily, sewing is just like riding a bike. You don't forget. In the worst case you don't go very straight at first.

I picked a dress pattern in this sewing book that my parents gave me last Christmas. The book looks lovely and is based around the idea of creating simple "tuniques" or blouses. The projects are therefore quite straightforward, but I wouldn't recommend it if you're totally new to sewing. There is no explanation at all as to how you should build your garment, and you must be aware of the sewing basics if you want to make it through.

I decided I would do one of the two dresses, and changed the pattern a bit, because the dress was supposed to be very short: I added about 8cm and removed one or two details I didn't like. Since the design was so simple, I had to find a "Waouw" factor through the choice of the fabrics. The top one is cotton from the last John Lewis Spring sale. The second one was given to me for my wedding by my friends Audrey and Luize along with other marvellous pieces from Africa and Asia. It is slightly shiny and decorated with same color swirls.
A priori, they don't belong together, but once I'd tried, I couldn't believe how good they looked next to each other: the colours and the patterns match so perfectly that the dress became something delicate,original, poetic...a "fairy" dress.

It was very simple to make. the longest part was the collar. I had to cut a black bias (for which I created the pattern, since the book recommended to use a simple ribbon) that I hand-stitched.

It was really the perfect project to start again: it went smoothly and I love this dress, especially the delicate back opening. It certainly makes me want to do more.

So keep looking for the next project!

Project 6 : The Serena Dress

The inspiration for that dress comes from two different directions.

First, I had this beautiful fabric that my friend Carole brought back from India (along with the fabric of The India Dress -Project 3). While beautiful, this fabric, which is very light and very fragile, is hard to sew. It slides a lot under the machine's foot, modifying the shape of the project all the time.

Secondly, I must confess that I watch the TV show Gossip Girl (for those who don't know, it is an American soap where extremely rich teenagers use New York as a playground for their mischiefs and manipulations). Rather than for the most of the time upsetting characters, I watch it (or "pretend to watch it") for the high end fashion and stylist work that is put in each and every scene. The clothes are coming directly from the last runway shows and are beautifully accessorized. One of the main characters, Serena, has a tendency to wear boho dresses, very airy and intricated at the same time.

The combination of those two facts made me try something very adventurous: I made a dress without using a pattern. Keeping the Serena style in mind, I listened to my fabric, cutting it the less possible and using the existing length and combination of patterns in the best way I could.

It results in a maxi dress, with a double layer to correct for the transparency, elastic bands at the waist (which were challenging!) and an altar top. I didn't fix the straps, so I can wear them in different ways, according to the mood. I like the way the dress floats when I walk. The top is very naked, but I guess it will be wearable during summers (maybe not British summers though) and holidays. Unless I dare wearing it the way it shows on the top picture: with wellies and a blazer!

Project 4: The Cocktail Dress

I am invited to attend a wedding next week, and for once I wanted to wear a dress that I had made, not bought. So, given the circumstances, here comes my first cocktail dress!

Once again I have to thank a dear friend for the fabric: when she went back to Cambodia, Audrey bought some lovely pink raw silk from the Russian market in Phnom Penh. The color is very sweet, while the texture is not regular (which is normal for raw silk): this gives an interesting combination and a more unique feel to the dress.

The model is a mix of two patterns: the top is from Burda and the bottom is the same as the India Dress (from Simplicity). The bottom from Burda was a tulip shape which I thought would be too lady-like combined to the top. The back of the dress, where the straps make a big bow, is the real strength of this design, while the front is very classic, even a little bit severe.

The fabric was relatively easy to sew, but the edges were fragile: I made sure I sewed every seam twice to secure the outfit.

With that dress I had to do my first lining, which was not so challenging. It just took a lot of time to finish the last seams by hand. I would have preferred to line it with the same silk, but I didn't have enough of it, so I picked a matching color in regular lining fabric.

I wish the waist were higher, but I guess it looks fine like that also. It's simply less flattering.

At last I succeeding in placing an "invisible" invisible zipper: you can't see it on the pictures (can you?). My zipper battle is over. I won.

I am not totally confident wearing that dress at a wedding, fearing that something bad will happen at some point (what if the zipper breaks? if the lining shows too much?). I will surely have another dress in my bag, just in case.

However, if everything goes well, I will be happy to accessorize it with the following head-piece that I made with some remnants. I bought the base, and covered it with silk before adding a silk flower and a white and golden button in the middle. I can fix it in my hair thanks to a pin. So chic!

Project 3: The India Dress

Introducing my first dress....

How do you aquire gorgeous fabric without actually looking for it? Ask your friends who travel to bring you a souvenir! That's what my friend Carole generously did, bringing back from her last stay in India amazing printed fabrics. Two of them are very light and difficult to tame, but with the third one I decided I would do my first dress, because it seemed reasonably easy to manipulate.

I chose a pattern from Simplicity. My criteria were the following: I wanted sleeves and a high waist.The fact that the top and the bottom were two distinct pieces was reassuring: you have the impression you can adjust more than with only one piece.

Putting the sleeves together was not the easiest, but the fact that they are puffy made it acceptable that they were not perfectly sewed.

I have got some more serious issues though: I fixed an invisible zipper...without understanding clearly how to do it. So this is a visible invisible zipper!

There were supposed to be two pockets, but I lost one in the zipper process: it is not accessible if the zipper is up.

The hem was once more my least favorite part. I had to redo it several times before the bottom looked even.

On the other hand, it was very interesting to play with the different types of pattern details and to place them differently on the top, the clivage, the sleeves and on the skirt.

I wear that dress with dark tights (the fabric is not totally opaque), by itself or with a black top underneath if it's too cold. This is a highly comfortable dress. I will definitely buy more Simplicity patterns (and ask Carole more fabric)!